What to Eat in Huế: Bún Bò Huế, Bánh Khoái, Cơm Hến and More

The dishes to plan around in Huế are bún bò Huế (spicy beef and lemongrass noodle soup, usually eaten for breakfast), cơm hến (rice with tiny river clams), bánh khoái (a crisp rice pancake), the small steamed rice cakes such as bánh bèo, bánh nậm and bánh lọc, and chè (sweet soups) in the afternoon. Most dishes cost about VND 20,000–60,000 at simple eateries, and many places specialise in a single dish. Our Huế Offline Place Guide keeps the food areas and sights in one list on your phone; the Huế guides are available in English, Spanish and German.

Why Huế food tastes different

Huế was the royal capital, and the city kept two kitchens: an elaborate court cuisine with many small dishes, and an everyday cooking that is cheaper, saltier and spicier than food in Hà Nội or Hồ Chí Minh City. Chilli, lemongrass and fermented shrimp paste (mắm ruốc) appear in a lot of local dishes. Portions are often small, which makes it easy to try several things in one meal.

The dishes, one by one

• Bún bò Huế. Round rice noodles in a beef broth flavoured with lemongrass and shrimp paste, coloured red with chilli oil. Toppings usually include beef shank, sometimes pork knuckle and blood cubes. Served with fresh herbs, banana flower and lime. Most shops serve it from early morning until it runs out, often before noon.
• Cơm hến and bún hến. Baby clams from the Perfume River, stir-fried and served over cold rice (cơm hến) or noodles (bún hến) with peanuts, crisp pork crackling, herbs and a spoon of clam broth on the side. Cồn Hến, an islet in the river, gave the dish its name and still has stalls selling it.
• Bánh khoái. A small, crisp rice-flour pancake folded over shrimp, pork, egg and bean sprouts. Eaten with herbs and a thick dipping sauce made with peanuts and sesame. Usually a lunch or dinner dish.
• Bánh bèo, bánh nậm, bánh lọc. The "royal cakes". Bánh bèo are small steamed rice cakes in saucers, topped with dried shrimp and crisp pork. Bánh nậm are flat rice-flour parcels steamed in banana leaf. Bánh lọc are chewy, clear tapioca dumplings with shrimp and pork. Often served together on a mixed plate.
• Nem lụi. Minced pork grilled on lemongrass sticks, wrapped at the table in rice paper with herbs and dipped in a peanut sauce.
• Chè. Sweet soups and desserts with beans, lotus seeds, tapioca or fruit, served warm or over ice. Huế has dozens of varieties. A good afternoon snack in the heat.

Where to eat

• Đông Ba Market. The main market on the north bank near the Trường Tiền bridge. The food section serves bún bò, bánh bèo and chè from morning until early afternoon. Busy and a little chaotic; go in the morning.
• Small specialist shops. Many of the best places cook one dish only and have a few low tables on the pavement. Look for a sign naming the dish and a steady stream of local customers.
• The south bank centre. Around the streets near Lê Lợi, Phạm Ngũ Lão and Võ Thị Sáu there are many restaurants with English menus. Convenient, slightly more expensive, and a good start on the first evening.
• Inside the Citadel. Quieter streets with local eateries and cafés, useful for lunch after visiting the Imperial City.

A day of eating in Huế

1. 07:00 Breakfast: a bowl of bún bò Huế, about VND 30,000–60,000.
2. 10:00 Coffee: Vietnamese iced coffee, or a salted coffee (cà phê muối), a Huế speciality with a salty cream on top.
3. 12:00 Lunch: cơm hến or a plate of bánh bèo, bánh nậm and bánh lọc.
4. 15:00 Snack: a glass of chè.
5. 18:30 Dinner: bánh khoái and nem lụi with a local beer.

That is five meals for roughly VND 200,000–400,000 per person at simple places. Restaurants with air-conditioning and English menus cost two to three times as much.

Practical tips

• Spice: say "không cay" (not spicy) when you order. Chilli is often on the table, so you can add it yourself.
• Shrimp paste: it is strong. If you are unsure, ask for it on the side.
• Cash: small eateries take cash in dong. Keep VND 10,000–50,000 notes ready.
• Allergies: peanuts, shrimp and fish sauce appear in many dishes. A written note in Vietnamese is more reliable than pointing.
• Plan B: if your chosen place is closed or sold out, ask your hotel for the nearest shop that sells the same dish. Most neighbourhoods have one.

Frequently asked questions

What is Huế famous for in food?

Bún bò Huế is the best-known dish. Cơm hến, bánh khoái, the steamed rice cakes (bánh bèo, bánh nậm, bánh lọc) and chè are also local specialities.

Is bún bò Huế very spicy?

It has a clear chilli kick, and the chilli oil on top adds more. You can ask for less, and the herbs and lime soften it.

When do people eat bún bò Huế?

Mainly for breakfast. Many shops open early and close when the pot is empty, often before or around midday. Some places serve it later.

Plan your food stops

The Huế Offline Place Guide lists the places to eat and see in one file, and the Huế Travel Guide explains the city around them. Both are available in English, Spanish and German. See all titles in the Huế travel guides collection.

Prices and times are planning estimates from our research. Eateries change hours and prices. Check current information before you go.